Landscaping Care Tips

Lawn Care Tips

• LAWN ROUND 1
  January 1 - February 15 Winter
  Balance of Plant Nutrients, Winter Weed Control and Preemergence crab grass Control
• LAWNCARE ROUND 2
  February 15 – March 30 Spring
  Fertilizer including micronutrients with broadleaf weed control
• LAWNCARE ROUND 3
  March 30 – May 15 Late Spring
  Fertilizer including micronutrients, and broadleaf weed control.
• LAWNCARE ROUND 4
  May 15 – July 1 Early Summer
  Fertilizer including micronutrients with targeted summer weed control.
• LAWNCARE ROUND 5
  July 1 – August 15 Summer
  Balanced Fertilizer including micronutrients with targeted broadleaf weed control.
• LAWNCARE ROUND 6
  August 15 – October 1 Late Summer
  Fertilizer including micronutrients with broadleaf weed control.
• LAWNCARE ROUND 7
  October 1 – November 15 Fall
  Fertilizer including micronutrients with broadleaf weed control.
• LAWNCARE ROUND 8
  November 15 – December 30
  Soil Conditioning Winterizer with Micronutrients

MOLE CRICKET CONTROL (optional)

February 1 – September 30
Seasonal Mole Cricket Control (1 time per season)

FIRE ANT CONTROL (optional)

February 1 - September 30
Seasonal Fire Ant Control (1 timer per season)

BROWN PATCH (optional)

Brown Patch is most common to Bermuda, Centipede Grass, and St. Augustinegrass especially in areas with high humidity and/or shade. Brown patch commonly starts as a small spot and can quickly spread outwards in a circular or horseshoe pattern up to a couple of feet wide. Often times, while expanding outwards, the inside of the circle will recover, leaving the brown areas resembling a smoke-ring.

After the leaves die in the blighted area, new leaves can emerge from the surviving crowns. On wide-bladed species, leaf lesions develop with tan centers and dark brown to black margins. This disease can be very active in the spring and fall. It also occurs in areas that receive more than 10 hours a day of wetness for consecutive days.

Brown patch infestation is more severe when the grass is cut to a height less than the optimum for the variety of grass.

SPRING MULCHING TIPS

Re-mulching your flowerbeds is an important operation that should be done every spring.

First remove any grass or weeds that have crept into your planting beds. Then till existing mulch into the soil (or work in with a gardening fork) to help loosen the soil around your plants and enable water and nutrients to penetrate. If the soil is heavy and hard, amendments such as peat can be worked in to help create a lighter texture.

Work in a light application of well-aged manure or a commercial time-release fertilizer. Remove any dead plants and install new plants before you apply your mulch layer. Mulch with "finished" compost from your pile or a good commercial wood mulch, placed three-to-four inches deep in the bed. Mulch this thick controls weeds and grasses and helps maintain moisture and a moderate soil temperature.

Although fine mulch should be used to create a good barrier on top of the soil, larger size bark "nuggets" can be added as a top layer to dress the bed up.

Irrigation Tips

Your irrigation system is the key to creating a healthy, water-efficient landscape. Use the tips in this section to know how to water and when.

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